Published on October 1, 2020 by Marseille Tourisme

September 1870 - September 2020. The Bonne Mère is 150 years old, at least in its current form, but it has been watching over us from its rocky perch for much longer. Serving as a lookout, a fort, and a chapel at different times, the site has been used since the city's foundation. Discover the fascinating history of the Basilica of Notre Dame de la Garde, closely linked to the city of Marseille.

The Bonne Mère needs no introduction. Whether you're a tourist, a resident of Marseille, or even from around the world, everyone knows her. Visible from all parts of the city, it is also the most visited monument in Marseille. Historically, Notre Dame has been the protector of sailors, fishermen, and the people of Marseille. The "Vierge de la Garde," as she is called in Marseille, was the one to whom people came to pray before setting sail, or to express gratitude after surviving a shipwreck. This is evidenced by the numerous ex-votos that adorn the interior of the basilica.

But how did it all begin ?

THE ROCK OF LA GARDE

Since the foundation of the city of Marseille, this hill has been used. It is indeed the highest summit in Marseille, reaching a height of 150 meters. Its remarkable position, only 1 kilometer as the crow flies from the port, and sufficiently elevated to overlook the entire bay of Marseille, made it a natural lookout point for the Greeks and Romans. The watchtower was quickly incorporated into a coastal surveillance network.

From the top of the Rock of La Garde, the sighting of a ship was announced to the city. A flag system was used to identify the type of vessel: Barbary, English, French, and so on.

DEVOTION TO MARY

In the 13th century, a priest named Pierre Oblat from the district of Les Accoules wanted to create a place entirely dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The land on the hill belonged to the Abbey, and the monks agreed to cede it. An appeal was made to finance the construction, and donations quickly poured in. Popular devotion was immediate, and from the very beginning, ex-votos were present. In 1477, the original chapel was replaced by a new one, which had vaults and was later transformed during the construction of the fort in 1525. The vocation of Notre Dame de la Garde was born. The people of Marseille and travelers flocked to the steep slopes of the hill. They would ascend to Notre Dame de la Garde before setting sail or embarking on a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. It was not uncommon to encounter sailors who, caught in a terrible storm, had all made a vow to visit Notre Dame de la Garde if they survived. They would come with a miniature replica of their ship, which they offered as an ex-voto. Around the mid-15th century, devotion to Mary had grown so much in the hearts of the people of Marseille that the original chapel, built 200 years earlier, had become too small. It needed to be expanded. From the beginning, writings mentioned a statue of the Virgin and Child, initially made of wood, of which there were several.

THE CONSTRUCTION OF A FORT AND A CHURCH

In 1515, King Francis I, returning from his victory at Marignan, stopped in Marseille and visited Notre Dame de la Garde. On this occasion, the artillery of all the warships was fired. To entertain the king, an orange fight was organized, in which Francis I participated personally, delivering some "mighty blows, receiving a few on his head and body." The royal visit was an event that increased the fame of Notre Dame de la Garde throughout the Kingdom of France.

In 1524, France was at war with the Constable of Bourbon, and Marseille was directly threatened with an imminent maritime siege. The municipal authorities began the construction of a fort on the island of If, as well as another on the hill of La Garde. The king even sent his advisor on fortifications to prepare the city's defenses.

The preparations were successful because in 1536, when Charles V besieged the city, he was repelled by particularly heavy artillery fire. Marseille was saved, and the Rock of La Garde now had a fort that defended the city but could also be used against it.

The church and the fort experienced a tumultuous coexistence. The site had both great military value and significant religious importance.

THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE MODERN BASILICA

The basilica of Notre Dame de la Garde that we all know is much more recent. The project dates back to 1852 when it was entrusted to the architect Henri Esperandieu. A native of Nîmes and a Protestant, he was chosen to design a Catholic religious edifice in Marseille.

Guided by his mentor, Léon Vaudoyer (himself inspired by the cathedrals of Venice and Hagia Sophia), young Esperandieu got to work. In 1853, the foundation stone was laid in the presence of Bishop Mazenod. Esperandieu passed away before he could see the completion of the work. However, he left a significant imprint on Marseille's architecture, having also participated in the construction of the Cathedral of La Major, the Palais Longchamp, the Palais du Pharo, and many other notable structures. In 1867, he was appointed as the "chief architect of the City of Marseille."

The construction of the basilica was filled with obstacles, and the work extended over time as the budget was exceeded and funds became scarce. Financed through subscriptions in all the churches of the city, the construction of Notre Dame de la Garde was truly completed in 1899. While the year of its consecration was 1864, it took until September 24, 1870, to see the statue of the Bonne Mère enthroned on its pedestal overlooking Marseille, watching over the people of Marseille and the travelers.

In the meantime, there was even an "elevator" that went up to Notre Dame de la Garde (before the tourist train era).

Yesterday, as today, the Bonne Mère accompanies the lives of the people of Marseille. Even if the fervor seems to have given way to uninterrupted crowds of tourists, she continues to shine in the hearts of all Marseille residents.