The traditions of Provençal Christmas

"CACHO FIO," THE YULE LOG

Children used to fetch a large log from a fruit tree, known as "cacho fio." This log was placed in the fire during the Christmas Eve vigil, just before the "big supper," while reciting: On the afternoon of December 24th, care was taken to clean the chimney so that the large log would inaugurate the new fire in the house. The youngest of the boys, called "lou caganis," had to throw it into the fire, while the head of the family recited a blessing:

"Cacho-fiò Bouto-fiò Alègre! alègre! Diéu nous alègre! Calèndo vèn, tout bèn vèn! Diéu nous fague la gràci de vèire l'an que vèn! E se noun sian pas mai, que noun fuguen pas mens!"

"Bûche de Noël Mettons-y-le feu Gai, gai, réjouissez-vous! Que Dieu nous donne la joie! Avec la Noël, nous arrivent tous les biens. Que Dieu nous fasse la grâce de voir l'année qui va venir! Et si [l'an prochain] nous ne sommes pas plus, que nous ne soyons pas moins!"

CHRISTMAS EVE: THE BIG SUPPER

The big supper is served on Christmas Eve before attending the midnight mass.

The table is covered with three white tablecloths, with three lit white candlesticks, as well as three saucers of germinated wheat from St. Barbara. The big supper paradoxically consists of lean but abundant dishes because Christmas Eve was a day of fasting. So, no meat, only fish, shellfish, gratins, vegetables, soups, anchovy sauce. The meal typically included dishes such as cod in wine and caper sauce, grilled eels, cauliflower, celery, brandade, fried whiting, chard with anchovies, snails with spinach…

The meal ended an hour before the midnight Mass. The thirteen desserts are tasted after the Mass, and they remain on the table for the next 3 days, until December 27th.

THE THIRTEEN DESSERTS

The thirteen desserts were eaten throughout the Christmas Eve after Mass, or the "ressoupet." They were consumed throughout the evening, and it was customary to eat a little of each to attract good fortune for the coming year. Here is the list of the thirteen desserts, not exhaustive, as it varies depending on the location in Provence, and many modern additions have been added:

• The 4 mendicants representing the religious orders that took a vow of poverty: dried figs (Franciscans), almonds (Carmelites), raisins (Dominicans), and walnuts (Augustinians).
• Black and white nougat.
• Fresh fruits: apples, pears, preserved melons, grapes, oranges.
• "Pompe à huile" or "fougasso," scented with orange blossom.
• Candied fruits, almond paste, or quince jam.
• Dates.

One can also add calissons from Aix, candied chestnuts, and chocolates.