Escalette Port
The port of l’Escalette, also known by the nickname “Petit Port”, was built in 1936 on Chemin des Goudes, at the gates of the Calanques in the city of Marseille. Its nickname comes from a restaurant located within it, opened above the port in 1979, which is also called the “Petit Port”. This restaurant, completely renovated, includes a beautiful terrace with a breathtaking view for all those fortunate enough to come and enjoy delicious dishes there! L’Escalette is a very small port as it only ho…
…uses 16 berths accessible by stairs (hence its name, indeed: "escalette" means small mobile staircase of the keeper of a watchtower in Provencal "escaleta"). This is due to the fact that a network of surveillance posts has long encircled the Marseille territory. A great mystery is also maintained regarding the exact location of the Escalette watchtower. However, it welcomes all kinds of small boats, especially the traditional fishing boats known as “pointus”. Let's dive together into the fascinating history of this unique port!
The history of the Port of l'Escalette and its creeks
Spanning over 20 km of coastline and overlooking several neighborhoods of Marseille, the creek of l'Escalette was developed into a port. All of this was intended to serve a lead, tin, and silver factory, processing, controlling, and stamping ore extracted as early as 1851. Created by Mr. Meynier and built of stone and brick, it allowed, during Marseille's industrial development, to move polluting industries from the Old Port to the seaside and thus facilitate the transport of materials. The materials extracted were used in the manufacture of pipelines, as well as in the composition of glassware and paints in the form of lead oxide. The factory, located not far from the port, has since become a true relic of the 19th century. At the peak of its activity, it produced up to 60 thousand tons of lead ore. That's why the port was built in the Calanque d'Escalette, at Les Goudes, where the customs office was located. Houses were even built so that the 200 workers could live there. However, the factory has been inactive since 1925, following the fall in the price of lead and difficulties in sourcing ore, although its activity partially resumed around 1930, to recycle waste from blast furnaces into road paving stones.
Instead, you can now find some vestiges and chimneys (the place is private), but above all the Friche de l'Escalette, a Park of Sculpture and Lightweight Architecture. It was also a strategic military point, for the French during the 1860s, and then for the Germans from the Second World War onwards. Bunkers and numerous German military installations are also present (they are also not open to the public). As a result of the lack of control, the dumping of tens of thousands of cubic meters of all kinds of waste, and all these past activities of the factory, the site and its surroundings are highly polluted with traces of lead, arsenic, cadmium, copper, or zinc, and sometimes huge mounds of brown deposits littered with slag. Many people fell ill at the time.
The port of l'Escalette today
Today, the port is managed by the Escalette Nautical Club. It has become a place for welcome and leisure where you can find a petanque court, starting points for hikes, but also, more surprisingly, the traditional "sunset kisses" where couples exchange intimate kisses facing the sun as it gives way to the moon for the night. This is perfect, as the site has a very large parking lot, allowing a large number of people to come and discover the place. However, it is important to note that swimming in the water around the port is prohibited, in part because there is no access by sea. It is an ideal place to enjoy a magnificent view of the coast, but also to stroll peacefully and enjoy a moment of calm and serenity. It is a must-visit during your trip to Marseille, both for its appearance and for its history, which is as interesting as it is unlikely.
Without hesitation, let yourself be tempted by the port of l'Escalette!