Le Panier

IN THE HEART OF THE OLDEST NEIGHBORHOOD IN MARSEILLE

It is north of the Lacydon calanque that the first inhabitants of Marseille built the primitive city. It stretched over three hills: the Saint Laurent hill to the west, the Panier hill in the center, and the Carmes hill to the east. Today better known as the Panier district, because of the inn "Le Logis du Panier" which gave its name to the street, and then to the neighborhood.

Long confined to areas delimited by ramparts, beyond which construction was prohibited, the Panier district took on the appearance of narrow, winding alleys with steep slopes. Hence this extreme stacking of houses packed tightly next to each other. The concern for space explains this appearance, which has made this neighborhood so famous. Visiting Marseille without going there would be a real shame, as the neighborhood is one of the must-see places! The image of the Panier is of these steep alleys climbing the hill, sometimes in steep slopes like ladders. The height is reflected in the dialect of the city's inhabitants who speak of "going up to the Panier", or conversely of "going down to the port". The buildings are tall, four to five stories high, and darken already closed and dark streets. The walls are now destroyed, but the Panier district has retained its unique atmosphere, a condensed version of the Marseille postcard that inspired the successful series "Plus belle la vie".

Three typical and friendly squares slightly ventilate this neighborhood: the famous Place de Lenche (former Greek agora) named after a large Corsican family, the Linciu, who built a mansion there. This square, used as a meeting place and market, is the one located furthest down in the neighborhood. Higher up, we find the small Place de Lorette accessible via the passage of the same name located on rue de la République. Even higher, the last and most hidden of the squares, I named it the Place des Moulins. Completely perched at the top of the hill, it is a space of tranquility for the neighborhood residents. Formerly, this square had many mills that were installed at this highest point, hence its name. Nowadays, there is still only one last mill in the neighborhood. It has the proud appearance of a Provencal village with its plane trees and fountains. People come here to meet and relax in the cool and tranquility.

THE PANIER DISTRICT: A SYMBOLIC PLACE

During a walk, one can see the last and rare vestiges of the medieval period that still testify to the history of Marseille. Firstly, the vieille charité with its exceptional architecture. A true symbol of old Marseille, its construction was decided in 1640 to accommodate the poor and beggars of the city. It was finally built in 1670 according to the plans of Pierre Puget. A little further down by the port is the Hôtel Dieu, which has now become a five-star palace.

In the 17th century, the Panier saw the Marseille bourgeoisie abandon the neighborhood in favor of new spaces opened on la Canebière or rue de la République. It was during this period that the Panier became a popular, overcrowded, and poorly maintained neighborhood, gradually retreating into itself. Since then, large urban projects have followed one another, with the same image of an archaic neighborhood that represents an obstacle to the modernization of the city. These projects remained wishful thinking until the occupation period.

At the end of the 19th century, the Panier attracted Italians (mainly Neapolitans) and Corsicans. Gradually, the neighborhood structured and developed around sea-related professions (fishermen, boatmen, boaters…).

LE PANIER: A RENEWED IMAGE

Today, the Panier district has gone through several phases. Long pursued by its dirty reputation as a "cutthroat" area, it was long avoided by many locals, including many Marseillais. Nowadays, things seem to have reversed, and it is a highly sought-after place by tourists on holiday in Marseille who see it as a "little Marseille Montmartre" with its craft shops, small bistros, and restaurants. The phenomenon of "Plus belle la vie" having passed through, a new generation of visitors now walk the steps of Marseille's oldest neighborhood in the hope of finding the heroes of the series and its places freely inspired by the Panier. And the official shop is of course located in this neighborhood and will delight fans of the series.

However, not everyone is pleased with the changes. Many, especially among the residents, deplore the "gentrification" of the neighborhood, which has become a victim of real estate speculation. The small train itself has attracted the anger of some residents who felt like they were "in a zoo". The popular district is experiencing a proliferation of "tourist shops" at the expense of local businesses.

When you search for the locations of "Plus belle la vie", you will find yourself in the Panier district. Yet, there is nothing like that in the Panier, only an authentic and charming neighborhood, far from the sugary television series. Marseille's oldest district is full of narrow and steep alleys that are home to many shops, including souvenir shops for tourists.

In these pedestrian streets, you will discover small typical bistros, unique artisans, second-hand dealers, antique dealers, creator workshops, and concept stores. Many shops in the Panier proudly claim "made in Marseille", whether in shopping, gastronomy, alcohol, and of course, soap! Of all the restaurants in Marseille, those in the Panier are among the most renowned! Do not hesitate to stop by during your journey through the Panier district.

The Little Train is the favorite mode of transport for tourists. Less tiring than walking because of the steep slopes, it will take you to discover the tourist sites of the Panier! Note that it also offers another route that will take you to Notre Dame de la Garde, one of the emblematic places of Marseille, and will show you along the way the monuments of Marseille and their history. There are indeed several ways to discover the Panier, "sporty" or more "tranquil", but in any case, charm and authenticity will be there. As you descend towards the Old Port, why not have a pastis in one of Marseille's many bars.